Chimney Liner Installation Cost

Chimney Liner

Chimney Liner

The cost of relining a chimney tends to shock many customers. Furthermore, chimney liner costs can be surprising. And there are a variety of factors that play into how much a chimney reline with installation costs. Depending on your area of the country, the average cost to get a professional reline runs from $2,500 to $5,000. Lets explore the option of purchasing a liner kit and installing it yourself.

Click here to determine if your flue needs a liner or not.

Additionally, the hardest part about relining your chimney is fitting the liner. Always remember that you need to properly size the liner in order for the chimney to draft properly. Remember that there will be an extra inch or so around the liner due to the insulation. Insulation is extremely important and actually helps to reduce creosote build up by keeping the chimney liner warmer. Liner kits vary in price based on the diameter and length of the liner, but a basic, UL listed 6″ diameter 20′ long chimney liner kit, complete with connector pipe, tee end cap, and top kit can be anywhere from $400 – $600. Chimney liner insulation kits, complete with all of the supplies needed to properly wrap your chimney liner pipe in insulation, can run between $200-300.

As you can see you are saving yourself major expenses incurred from installation fees, but with that you are taking in some risk as well. Lining your own chimney can be very dangerous. You need to be absolutely sure you have enough manpower to handle this large, sometimes heavy liner or else accidents can happen

Liner Installation Video

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Clay Lamb
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40 thoughts on “Chimney Liner Installation Cost

  1. Too bad but I haven’t seen many of those around. The price might be high but it’s one of those preventive measures you can take to avoid costly repairs/replacements later.

  2. I’m looking to purchase a house that has a double flue, one used for a fireplace and one to vent an oil furnace. The liner needs to be replaced and I’ve asked the seller to cover the cost of relining it. How much does it usually run? Still $2500-5000?

  3. obviously this ad is for a wood-burning insert at the shortest possible height. Re-lining a wood-burning fireplace involves many more material and installation factors. Depends on height of building, offsets, constrictions or blockages, smoke chamber condition … need to see it to make a proper assessment. 416-892-5263

  4. @alan hilts – i did cleaning and sweep service at my house, which I just bought and they found there was a chimney fire a while ago and the original clay liner is cracked. They also suggested the liner to be replaced before using the firewood. As a test, I burned a small chunk of wood and haven’t noticed any smoke going into my room.
    Do I actually have to replace a liner if it is cracked? Any advise would be appreciated.

  5. Igor,
    If there are cracks in the lining system as a professional I would suggest the same thing. If we notice this in a customer chimney we not only recommend to replace or repair the liner, but also recommend not to burn. This is because when a liner is cracked it cannot contain the products of combustion. This has potential to cause further damage. Check out some of our videos and articles on this issue for further information. If you have concerns I would get a second opinion.

  6. I purchased a 50-gallon heater online…however the installer won’t hook it up until after I have the chimney lined. Is that true? is the liner really necessary?
    So I’ll have the chimney lined…will I need 2 tubes/liner…one for the heater and another for the furnace? Thanks for whatever information/suggestions. As you can see, I really have no idea.

  7. @igor – if the clay tile is cracked due to the thermal shock of a chimney fire … yes, code says the chimney is no longer compliant. This does NOT mean your house will burn down … it just means that if your house burns down in any way related to the fireplace, you probably won’t be covered by your insurance as the chimney does NOT comply with code.

  8. A fireplace relining is usually far more detailed than that of a simple furnace flue relining due to the size of the liner needed and as stated ealier offsets / bends in the chimney if applicable, often times the fireplace was built incorrectly from day 1 as in: the incorrect flue size was used when first built, if that is the case any flue tile and all would most likely have to be drilled out first often times not an easy to do job not to mention if the fireplace flues are close to the furnace flues in a double flue chimney you also risk disturbing them as well and wind up relining both, the bottom line is there should never be any type of cracks or breaks in the lining or shifted flues if the flues are shifting it could mean they were :Dry Stacked: meaning no type if insulating material of any kind is around them, basically a hollow chimney box with flue tiles simply stacked on on top of another and thermal expansion and contraction has shifted/cracked them over time, being a negative draft system as most fireplaces are those gaps alone decrease the draw or pulling action of the gasses produced by burning, the flues need to be tightly closed and insulated well for a fireplace to be as efficient as possible and cut down on creosote build up, if creosote gets behind those shifts or beyond those cracks and ignites behind the flue tile anything could happen and you wouldn’t even know it until later, Fireplace relinings are rarely an easy job and rarely cheap, guys will have to subject themselves to an all out getting their butts kicked in just to get that ceramic out of there even before the new stainless liner goes into the chimney and it is usually a large liner often times larger than what was removed.
    This is a great place to learn about what is going with your chimney and ways to go about repairing it and while some of the simpler things like crowns and cleaning a homeowner can do if they’re handy and not afraid of heights I would not suggest attempting a fireplace relining unless you have a great deal of knowledge with chimneys, for a job such as that you must hire the right company and the right guy from that company must show up at your door not just a green horn he had better know his stuff , Best of luck to you .

  9. i want to buy a new fire but have been told i have to have a chimney liner fitted my house is 3 storey how much will this cost me??

  10. You wrote “fire” I will assume at this point you meant flue. In our company, we base our lining pricing on degree of difficulty to install the liner, plus the cost of materials and fair profit to operate a business. Get 3 or 4 liner estimates, and check the contractors recent work and references before signing a contract. The web is loaded with reviews, as well a the BBB.
    Burn safe and warm

  11. YES YES and Yes again!!!! Due to liability, we wouldn’t touch any stove or heater for any installation, that is not UL listed or tested for their equipment. We know all too well just how important it is to follow the manufacturer’s listed installation instructions on ALL heating appliances.

  12. We need to have our flue relined, but I think the flue needs expansion as well as it’s too small for the firebox so we’re getting some smoke into the room (despite a smoke guard being in place). Can you change the flue size easily when re-lining, or is it massively costly to do this?

  13. Question – I was told by one company that I need a chimney cap and another company told me I need a cap and liner. Not sure who to believe, any suggestions?

  14. I had a chimney fire and got a chimney sweeper to come out. He said i need to replace the liner because there i a buckle in the liner. Do i have to replace the liner

  15. Hello
    I had my chimney repaired and a new clay liner installed at the top of the chimney from where the new bricks were installed. A chimney inspector told me that the people installing it did not cement the olf flue liner to the new flue liner and there is a half inch gap. The chimney company inspecting said I need to install a new stainless liner. The chimney portion that was repaired is outside only and not going through any rooms. Do you think I need to install a new chimney liner? If so isn’t there a way to seal it without installin a new chimney liner? eldfast?

  16. We purchased a home with a prefab fireplace. The liner is fine but the side are metal and the back and floor of the firebox are cracked. Do we need to replace the firebox and liner or just the firebox? The firebox is from 1981.

  17. We are buying a home and just had a fireplace
    Inspection /estimate. Not only do we need exterior work (pointing/new crown), we need a new flue liner (currently= cracked tiles from 1949). My question is… with this amount of work, it was suggested we may want to consider installing a word burning insert or gas insert instead. Which is more cost-effective? And what would you choose in your experience? Also, can we install an insert and wait on the exterior masonry for a bit?
    Thank you,

  18. Regarding buying a gas or wood unit in most cases, it is a matter of connivence. When I was 30 I enjoyed cutting wood and feeding the wood-stove insert. At 66 I enjoy flipping a switch in the morning and putting my boots on by a warm gas fire. PS My wife still really enjoys using the wood-stove in the other room, the cracking fires, the smell of wood burning as well as having me cleaning and carrying the ashes outside is empowering to her:) …. gotta love it

  19. Not sure how bad the masonry issue is? If it is not leaking water in to the *(interior of the chimney or into your home), my guess is that it is spalling brick and that may be able to be addressed in the spring.
    *The new gas or wood insert will require it’s own lining system and the damage tilse will not be used
    Regarding buying a gas or wood unit in most cases, it is a matter of connivence. When I was 30 I enjoyed cutting wood and feeding the wood-stove insert. The cracked liners in my opinion would be addressed as the new gas or wood stove insert will require it’s own new venting system!

  20. Is the cracked material (masonry) or not? If so these side panels as well as the floor can often be replaced?
    As a company wee will not replace just a metal firebox.
    This is due to “no UL warranty” would be offered for parts only, by any manufacture.
    Take look my videos regarding:
    Prefab Fireplace Wall Panels

    Prefab Fireplace Repair and Replacement

    Replacing a Prefab Fireplace

  21. yes there are a number of Chimney flue liner seal systems.
    Because I cannot address all your issue here, I would call a sweep who is a member of the National Chimney Sweeps Guild for an opinion as well as getting a repair estimate, or even call couple of them for their opinion.

  22. I have a gas furnace and hot water heater. Do i need chimney liners for both flues? I dont think i have any liners at all and i think i may have masonry failing on 3 story rowhome. How much would a full repair cost. When should i have it done? Should i just by pass chimney and run flue out of foundation?

  23. Today my answer would depend on how old your equipment is? Newer hot water heaters and furnaces are often side vended out of the building, an NOT vented out of the top of the chimney. Access to the chimney, size of liner pipe and the degree of difficulty to complete a job safely all play a big factors in our estimating the cost of doing a reline job. (IF) both the hot water heater and the furnace are of the same of fuel supply (ie:gas or oil) in most areas of the country and by most code recommendations the two can be combined in to one flue pipe.
    PS. Your statement regarding masonry falling of other row homes is a different subject, as the above address the interior of the flue system only, My recommendation is to find a reputable Chimney Sweep in your area by using this link to the National Chimney Sweep Guild locator: Also be sure and go online and read their customer reviews from Google, BBB and AngiesList. I’m never impressed with those cheaper sweepers.

  24. What should we look for when a Chimney Sweep gives us an estimate/quote for installing a liner in an existing chimney? What questions should we be asking? Is a “damper closer” something in which we should invest? Thank you

  25. I will assume your referencing an “open wood burning fireplace” here. To prevent new smoking problems the sizing of the pipe is very critical. In most cases for us this “will require” an 11″ round pipe with an insulation jacket around the full length of the pipe, sealed on the outsides of the pipe at the bottom as well as the top of the new liner. To get an 11′ pipe in the chimney more often than not,the clay flue tile will need to be broken out prior to installing the new lining system. Many time we will remove bricks from the outside of the fireplace then replace the bricks after the pipe has been installed, most often we will make use the same damper, occasionally we will install a new LockTop damper.
    Here are two videos that may help you or possible others who may be dealing with a fireplace relining. <---- Insurance repairs <-----Fireplace relinng

  26. It may be best to have a stainless Steel chimney liner installed to repair any damage, after it is confirmed with video and pictures. If you were ever to have a chimney fire it could get out through any cracks and possibly destroy your home or maybe even worse. The last thing you want to do is put yourself or family members in harm’s way. Call a –>(CSIA) Certified Chimney Sweep and have them run a chimney video camera up “or” down the chimney flue, this is just to verify for any possible chimney flue damages.
    When selecting a contractor to work in your home, always be-sure to check all of their written customer reviews on Google, BBB and AngiesList
    Thanks, Mike for your added insights here!

  27. My house is 100+ years old in the Northeast. The chimney sweep showed it didn’t have a liner for the furnance flue and it would cost $2200 to install. Does it need one ? He came out to put a cap on the chimney and it feels like I’m being upgraded.

  28. Liz, “Don’t shoot the messenger” . . . (yet) as I don’t find this unusual for a 100 year old home at all. I also live in an older home and this happened to us. It is very common for older chimneys to collapse internally as what is called a (Wythe wall) or what others might described as a partitioning wall begins to deteriorate from exposure to snow, water and gas or oil fuels. I have seen many of these Wythe wall will collapse while trying attempting to install a new liner and this must be addressed and stabilized at that time.

    “Most“ HVAC or furnace contractors do not address “unlined chimney flues “ and that may be why the subject is just surfacing. I’m not sure about your particular need for a liner or the “degree of difficulty would be installed”, but we always price our liners jobs, base on the length of the pipe needed, the size of the pipe in round inches 3”, 5”, 6,” 8” etc. Another question is does the pipe required to be made of aluminum or stainless steel materials and does the flue pipe require a bat of insulation wrapped around it prior to being installed.
    I would suggest getting a couple of other prices and possibly call a HVAC heating contractor that you might have used to service your equipment.*

    * To find a reputable Chimney Sweep in your area, use this link to the National Chimney Sweep Guild locator: and be sure to go online and read all of their customer reviews from Google, BBB and AngiesList.
    I think it is great that your addressing this prior to kicking your furnace on. Be sure they are checking and addressing the hot water chimney flue as well!
    Best to you, & thanks for stoping by here at Ask The Chimney Sweep

    Clay Lamb author of: – Youtube Educational Videos – Professional grade Chimney products – Contractor Coaching Podcast – GM @ American Chimney Sweep Cincinnati, OH

  29. So then, I really appreciate this forum. I had the sweep out today to inspect and clean…and woe is me. Our house was built in the 30s/40s. Basically, the whole thing will have to be rebuilt and the brick work repointed from the flashing up to a tune of $6,625. I will go on the site you recommended and get at least two or 3 more estimates. While we only have been using an infrared quartz insert, we want to make sure the chimney/fireplace is in its best possible shape to ensure no mishaps in the future. We have already rehabbed the whole house from the basement up and do not want the whole thing to go literally up in smoke trying to not spend the $6+K

  30. It sounds like your doing everything that you can do to be safe. Great follow up on getting those additional estimates to validate the value of your repairs. I love electric (Quartz) fireplace heaters, your differently ahead of the pack in getting onboard with these (Zone heating) electric fireplace heaters. I was in Atlanta this year for the Hearth Patio Barbeque Association convention (HPBA) and I was shocked to see all of the new models, the design and shapes of this unit were endless. Coloured lights, flame height, imitation smoke, and fan speed were just a few of the detail that caught my eye.
    I just went on to youtube to find the links to my own two videos regarding electric fireplace and I’m shocked at how many new videos are out there about electric fireplaces.
    stay safe and warm.

  31. I live just outside Philadelphia Pennsylvania and have a chimney that is very hard to reline with stainless steel. Asking about thermocrete coating. Do you have any exposure to this product and what are the average cost? Cant get anyone to call me back that does this

  32. Sean
    I have heard of great things and not so great reports on Thermcrete. I think it is worth your investigation as a viable relining option. In most cases, it comes down to chimney flue surface preparation and following the Mfg. installation instructions to the tee.
    I might suggest your contacting the Mfg about installers in your area of the country.
    Sorry to hear no one has gotten back to you about this install, no excuses for not being courteous. In the world of chimney and fireplaces, this is often referred to as the crazy season or silly season
    Keep knocking on their door as it might be an office communication breakdown that they may not even be aware of internally.
    If you have time check out this link (Sweep Finder)
    Burn Safe and Warm

  33. My husband and I bought a house in NB and have a oil wood burning stove we had a new liner put in and added some ducts and had a professional company do all the work .This year we called them to come check and clean the liner only to be told there’s too much build up in the liner and they can’t do it surely you don’t have to replace the liner every year why did the happen is there anything we can do he’s called in two more different companies and we are waiting for them but sure would like your opinion thanks Robyn {sorry furnace not stove }

  34. Greetings Robyn,
    When I hear of problems like this I will often discover it is either caused by the way the unit is being operated or an installation problem with the chimney venting.
    I will assume that the installation was completed in detail according to the furnace mfg. as well as the stainless steel chimney pipe manufactures instructions.
    Two very serious issues come to mind when I hear of a situation as you’re describing.
    One was the same size of the piping in circumference or in square inches found on the furnace most often an (8 inch) round opening requires the same chimney size piping.
    The second issue is, are the exhaust gases from the furnace backing up or allowed to accumulate on the screen area of the chimney cap

    Many times this is due to choking the damper down to often during log burn time during the day or evening, The screening on the top of the chimney may not be getting cleared off or is it acting as a clogged filter or strainer thus preventing the flue gases from exiting the chimney.
    While we are talking about creosote buildup, is the wood that your burning dried to 15-25% moisture content.
    The wood that I burn has been sitting and covered on top of the pile to prevent water entry with open sides to allow it to air dry for approx a year prior to burning. Using a moisture meter that can be purchased online is a great tool to invest in for serious wood burner like yourself

    There is an awesome product called PCR that is well worth considering to remove this creosote accumulation. Personally, I would find an installer who is used to working with is PCR product.

    1)-If you have time check out this link (Sweep Finder).
    2)- Poultice Creosote Remover – PCR – ChimneySaver
    800 S 7th St
    Richmond, IN 47374
    Phone: 800-860-6327

    3)-Check out this PCR Youtube video
    Youtube link ?

    Always check your contractor review on Angie’s list BBB and Google
    Burn Safe and Warm

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