September 10, 2010

Replace Damaged Brick on Your Chimney

Damaged brick is very common on chimneys.

Brick repair can be done at home if you use the right tools and the right information.

Chimneys extend high above the roofline where they have very little protection from the elements. Due to this fact, there is a high likelihood that your chimney will need brick repair at one point or another. Repairing brick by yourself is not an impossible task and with the right tools and information, you can turn a repair that would be expensive to pay a professional to do into an at home project to save money.

Brick match is an important part of the process. Be sure to take an actual brick sample to a brickyard when you are matching brick to the project. One out of place brick can make the repair look very tacky. You may also want to consider purchasing mortar pigment if the mortar you have purchased does not match your existing mortar.

You need to get the damaged brick out first. Make sure that you do not damage any of the other bricks in this process. Use a chisel and a hammer to remove the damaged brick one piece at a time. Remember, safety first. Always wear eye coverings to prevent a chunk of air borne brick from hurting you. Chisel out the mortar from the hole the brick left behind and clean out the opening with a brush and rinse with water. This is a very necessary step toward making the repair last as long as possible.

Taking your time and using the right tools pays off.

By taking time, he did not damage any brick surrounding this damaged brick.

After mixing your mortar and adding in any necessary pigments, trowel the mortar into the hole on the bottom and both sides. Wet the brick slightly so it will take the mortar better. Make the mortar about ¾” thick on the bottom and both sides of the hole. Apply more mortar to the top and sides of the brick and place the brick in the chimney until it is even with the others. Mortar will ooze out during this process. Be sure to remove this mortar from the face of the brick to prevent staining. Do this by waiting until the mortar is nearly dry and wire brushing away any extra mortar. Also, make sure the mortar is flush with the face of the brick by either removing some or adding more in with a pointing tool.

Seal your repair after with a penetrating water repellent. A water repellent is necessary to making your repairs last longer and will prevent new needed repairs from surfacing. Water is often the culprit to chimney brick problems, so protecting your chimney is a very necessary step in the process.

Why Is My New Chimney Cracking?

So, you’ve either built a new home or simply rebuilt your chimney, but now you see cracks. This can be disheartening, especially if you’ve just had the chimney replaced due to structural problems or similar cracks. There are many possible causes to these cracks, but is important to deal with these cracks before water can enter them and either erode away more brick or cause even more damage due to the freeze-thaw process that frequently occurs, especially through winter months.

Why did this even happen in the first place? Even if the chimney is brand new, using brand new brick and mortar, there are various reasons why a chimney would crack. It is important to distinguish between hairline cracks and long cracks that appear to just keep growing. After being laid, brick will shrink from UV exposure and the loss of small amounts of moisture present in brick. This may cause hairline cracks to appear, and although they are not of particular concern, you will want to consider sealing them with a crack sealant.

Conversely, long cracks, either vertical or horizontal, that are wider than what could be considered hairline are of an issue. These will need to be dealt with either by you or a professional. Sometimes the soil is not strong enough to support the extreme weight of a new chimney. Due to this fact the ground will shift. This is called “settling” and can cause cracks to form as the structure is bent ever so slightly this way and that. The settling process can be expected to stop eventually.

Other times, an inadequate footer may be to blame. This slab of concrete is supporting an extreme weight. Your footer must be at least 12 inches thick and extend 15 inches in all directions on the sides of the base of the chimney. Steel bars should be placed 2 to 4 inches up from the bottom of the chimney in both directions for additional support. If the chimney is not placed on a sound foundation, then there can be little hope for a structurally sound chimney. If you suspect that the footer was not properly constructed, then the mason who installed the chimney may be to blame for your chimney woes.

Interestingly enough, mortar does not come to its full strength until it cures completely, a process that can take months in some cases. As the wind blows and the climate changes, the chimney can sway minutely this way and that. As the structure is bent, cracks can occur. The most sound chimney will encompass steel bars that help to keep the chimney as upright as possible, even during the strongest winds, to prevent the brick and mortar alike from shifting until the mortar has time to cure completely.

No matter the reason behind your cracks, they will only continue to worsen if they are not taken care of. It is imperative to waterproof your brick with a sealant that will not only protect the crack itself from water penetration and freeze-thaw damage, but also allow the brick beneath it to breathe. Certain crack sealants are better than others, and doing a bit of research prior to making a purchase will save you trouble in the future. If you hire a professional to help you out, make sure to inquire as to what type of sealant they will be using on your chimney. Taking the time to read reviews on products and coming to a working understanding of what type of chemicals the product is comprised of will let you rest knowing that your chimney has been taken care of with prime products.