Replace Damaged Brick on Your Chimney

Damaged brick is very common on chimneys.

Brick repair can be done at home if you use the right tools and the right information.

Chimneys extend high above the roofline where they have very little protection from the elements. Due to this fact, there is a high likelihood that your chimney will need brick repair at one point or another. Repairing brick by yourself is not an impossible task and with the right tools and information, you can turn a repair that would be expensive to pay a professional to do into an at home project to save money.

Brick match is an important part of the process. Be sure to take an actual brick sample to a brickyard when you are matching brick to the project. One out of place brick can make the repair look very tacky. You may also want to consider purchasing mortar pigment if the mortar you have purchased does not match your existing mortar.

You need to get the damaged brick out first. Make sure that you do not damage any of the other bricks in this process. Use a chisel and a hammer to remove the damaged brick one piece at a time. Remember, safety first. Always wear eye coverings to prevent a chunk of air borne brick from hurting you. Chisel out the mortar from the hole the brick left behind and clean out the opening with a brush and rinse with water. This is a very necessary step toward making the repair last as long as possible.

Taking your time and using the right tools pays off.

By taking time, he did not damage any brick surrounding this damaged brick.

After mixing your mortar and adding in any necessary pigments, trowel the mortar into the hole on the bottom and both sides. Wet the brick slightly so it will take the mortar better. Make the mortar about ¾” thick on the bottom and both sides of the hole. Apply more mortar to the top and sides of the brick and place the brick in the chimney until it is even with the others. Mortar will ooze out during this process. Be sure to remove this mortar from the face of the brick to prevent staining. Do this by waiting until the mortar is nearly dry and wire brushing away any extra mortar. Also, make sure the mortar is flush with the face of the brick by either removing some or adding more in with a pointing tool.

Seal your repair after with a penetrating water repellent. A water repellent is necessary to making your repairs last longer and will prevent new needed repairs from surfacing. Water is often the culprit to chimney brick problems, so protecting your chimney is a very necessary step in the process.

Why Is My New Chimney Cracking?

So, you’ve either built a new home or simply rebuilt your chimney, but now you see cracks. This can be disheartening, especially if you’ve just had the chimney replaced due to structural problems or similar cracks. There are many possible causes to these cracks, but is important to deal with these cracks before water can enter them and either erode away more brick or cause even more damage due to the freeze-thaw process that frequently occurs, especially through winter months.

Why did this even happen in the first place? Even if the chimney is brand new, using brand new brick and mortar, there are various reasons why a chimney would crack. It is important to distinguish between hairline cracks and long cracks that appear to just keep growing. After being laid, brick will shrink from UV exposure and the loss of small amounts of moisture present in brick. This may cause hairline cracks to appear, and although they are not of particular concern, you will want to consider sealing them with a crack sealant.

Conversely, long cracks, either vertical or horizontal, that are wider than what could be considered hairline are of an issue. These will need to be dealt with either by you or a professional. Sometimes the soil is not strong enough to support the extreme weight of a new chimney. Due to this fact the ground will shift. This is called “settling” and can cause cracks to form as the structure is bent ever so slightly this way and that. The settling process can be expected to stop eventually.

Other times, an inadequate footer may be to blame. This slab of concrete is supporting an extreme weight. Your footer must be at least 12 inches thick and extend 15 inches in all directions on the sides of the base of the chimney. Steel bars should be placed 2 to 4 inches up from the bottom of the chimney in both directions for additional support. If the chimney is not placed on a sound foundation, then there can be little hope for a structurally sound chimney. If you suspect that the footer was not properly constructed, then the mason who installed the chimney may be to blame for your chimney woes.

Interestingly enough, mortar does not come to its full strength until it cures completely, a process that can take months in some cases. As the wind blows and the climate changes, the chimney can sway minutely this way and that. As the structure is bent, cracks can occur. The most sound chimney will encompass steel bars that help to keep the chimney as upright as possible, even during the strongest winds, to prevent the brick and mortar alike from shifting until the mortar has time to cure completely.

No matter the reason behind your cracks, they will only continue to worsen if they are not taken care of. It is imperative to waterproof your brick with a sealant that will not only protect the crack itself from water penetration and freeze-thaw damage, but also allow the brick beneath it to breathe. Certain crack sealants are better than others, and doing a bit of research prior to making a purchase will save you trouble in the future. If you hire a professional to help you out, make sure to inquire as to what type of sealant they will be using on your chimney. Taking the time to read reviews on products and coming to a working understanding of what type of chemicals the product is comprised of will let you rest knowing that your chimney has been taken care of with prime products.

ChimneySaver Water Based Water Repellent

ChimneySaver Water-Base Water Repellent has been in circulation by professionals for almost 20 years. This unique repellent is vapor permeable so it will not trap water vapors in the brick. Water repellents that trap the vapors in the brick actually cause spalling rather than preventing it. The Water-Base formula from ChimneySaver is specially formulated for chimneys that have never been treated with another waterproofing product. If you have used a different kind of water repellent previously on your chimney, we recommend using the Solvent-Base water repellent, with mineral spirits.

It is important to remember that there is always a certain, small percentage of moisture present in masonry surfaces or concrete, and film-forming sealers use silicone to coat the brick complete, trapping those vapors inside and catalyzing the rate at which brick spall and crack when the vapors cannot escape. This is the opposite effect of what a protective water repellent should do. Film forming water repellents will contribute to the rate at which the brick or concrete on your chimney or other masonry project deteriorates and heighten freeze-thaw damage.

In contrast to these film-formers is the ChimneySaver Water Repellent products. Both the Water-Base and the Solvent-Base make it possible for vapors to escape, preventing the deterioration of the masonry surface. Per fallon, the ChimneySaver Water-Base Water Repellent covers between 90 and 150 sq. ft. depending on the thickness of each coat, and it is available in 3, 5, 30, and 55 gallon containers. When applying this product it is important to make sure that the temperature outside is above 40 degrees Fahrenheit so that it can cure properly, and you must allow six hours of drying time before a rainfall even though the product itself has a dry time of one to two hours. Very cold temperatures will reduce the efficiency of the stain. It is recommended to apply using a pump-sprayer, and soap and water is appropriate for clean up.

Used Brick and Your Chimney


Used brick are soft and may quickly deteriorate. If your masonry structure is made with used brick, it is more than likely that you will already know. If you do not, however, there are many tell tale signs that you do. Used brick are known in a positive light for their beauty. Their rustic aestheticism is incomparable to newer bricks made by more modern procedures. They are bricks recycled or salvaged from prior buildings or construction sites. Often times, used brick are the remnants of older buildings having been torn down to create more modern structures. Some characteristics of used brick include rounded edges, small chips, and a general “tumbled” feel.

Used brick can be from salmon pink to chalky orange to bright red. There are not any real color distinctions between new and used brick; their condition is the determining factor. Often their sizes are extremely irregular.

New brick will deteriorate in chunks or sections. Used brick, however, tend to deteriorate individually due to their differences in density throughout. Since their masses are not evenly distributed as is with new brick, made in a factory, one individual brick in the center of other perfectly fine bricks may start to crack and crumble.

The best maintenance tip I have for used after brick wall repair is to apply a deep penetrating water repellent once every few years. You also need to take care of any cracks or missing mortar joints immediately when caring for used brick. If you do not, the problem will quickly spiral out of control and hefty repairs may become necessary.

Help! I Need Brick Repair

Having been in business since 1981, I cannot begin to tell you how many customers calling for an ‘outer estimate,’ a visual inspection and written list of recommendations for chimneys which are deteriorating, spalling, falling, or have been damaged by some natural cause.

Often times, an estimator will give you estimates of varying amounts that correlate with different types of repairs and fixes. Although this process can be confusing at times, it is our policy to walk customers through the estimation and repair process.

When tackling moderately severe chimney damage (many brick are spalling, cracking, or falling out) it is frequently necessary to rebuild the outer “shell” of the chimney. In doing this, a mason takes off the exterior brick of the chimney down to a few courses (rows) of brick below the end of the existing damage and replaces those with new brick, new mortar, and a coat of water repellent.

This type of repair, the partial or (in very bad instances of spalling or cracking) total rebuilds, is most often the most expensive repair possible. A less expensive repair is an option available for budget repairs and small repairs. In situations where the damage is generally not widespread and minimal where it can be found, a cut and plug method can be used.

This method is the cutting out of damaged brick and replacing them with new bricks using new mortar. This type of repair usually carries a short or no warranty at all and is far less durable than a more extensive rebuild option. As with the rebuild repair, water repellent is applied to the brick once the repair has been completed and given ample time to cure.

A water repellent (we like ChimneySaver Water Repellent) is a necessary step after the completion of any brick repair. Its cost is a small price to pay due to its immense ability to deflect water from eroding away your chimney’s lifetime. A good water repellent will not merely form a film over your brick (which winds up trapping water vapors and promoting the likelihood of spalling) but actually form a semi-permeable membrane around the surface of the brick that allows vapors to move freely but prevents the water droplets from entering. This step is essential to upholding the integrity of your chimney repair.

My Brick is Cracked and Flaking!


Brick, especially older brick or brick that has never been treated with water repellent has a tendency to crack or flake off as a result of freeze thaw damage and general wear and tear. Although preventative maintenance can be performed routinely over the years to preserve the life of your masonry, cracks will occur despite the most thorough preventative measures.

Things may appear perfectly fine one season, and the very next you may begin to see pieces of brick cracking off of your chimney and landing on the roof or the ground surrounding the chimney. This is what is known as spalling, and is a red flag signaling repair has become necessary. A lot of spalling and cracking is a direct result of water damage. Any masonry repair completed absolutely must be waterproofed, seeing that water damage is the number one cause of chimney damage, period.

Because the chimney is suspended so high above the roof line, they are extremely susceptible to damage from the elements. Making these cracks look less noticeable is an area of expertise perfected over our time in business. We use specialized tools to gently manipulate the crack area to be worked on. We will never beat on your wall with a sledge hammer as some other companies deem appropriate!

Sculpting mortar into these cracks and applying the proper stain is all a part of the process, but the key is really applying a water repellent to seal the effects of the repair and seal life into your bricks.

When it comes to protecting your chimney from spalling, cracking and deterioration, chimney waterproofing must be done with a quality water repellent such as Chimney Saver.

Help I Need Brick Repair

brick-repairHaving been in business since 1981, I cannot begin to tell you how many customers calling for an ‘outer estimate,’ a visual inspection and written list of recommendations for chimneys which are deteriorating, spalling, falling, or have been damaged by some natural cause.Often times, an estimator will give you estimates of varying amounts that correlate with different types of repairs and fixes. Although this process can be confusing at times, it is our policy to walk customers through the estimation and repair process.

When tackling moderately severe chimney damage (many brick are spalling, cracking, or falling out) it is frequently necessary to rebuild the outer “shell” of the chimney. In doing this, a mason takes off the exterior brick of the chimney down to a few courses (rows) of brick below the end of the existing damage and replaces those with new brick, new mortar, and a coat of water repellent.

This type of repair, the partial or (in very bad instances of spalling or cracking) total rebuilds, is most often the most expensive repair possible. A less expensive repair is an option available for budget repairs and small repairs. In situations where the damage is generally not widespread and minimal where it can be found, a cut and plug method can be used.

This method is the cutting out of damaged brick and replacing them with new bricks using new mortar. This type of repair usually carries a short or no warranty at all and is far less durable than a more extensive rebuild option. As with the rebuild repair, water repellent is applied to the brick once the repair has been completed and given ample time to cure.

A water repellent (we like ChimneySaver Water Repellent) is a necessary step after the completion of any brick repair. Its cost is a small price to pay due to its immense ability to deflect water from eroding away your chimney’s lifetime. A good water repellent will not merely form a film over your brick (which winds up trapping water vapors and promoting the likelihood of spalling) but actually form a semi-permeable membrane around the surface of the brick that allows vapors to move freely but prevents the water droplets from entering. This step is essential to upholding the integrity of your chimney repair.

Regular Maintenance and Your Masonry Paving

brick-sidewalkRepairs for brick or stone paving can be extremely, extremely pricey. Brick walkways or stone patios may have been installed poorly by bricklayers who were not concerned with the quality of the work they did at the home. Some homeowners are faced with problems caused by very large mortar joints, made as such to make room for the unevenly sized bricks used for the construction job. These joints are extremely prone to water damage, and moss and mold growth.

If you are reading this particular blog post, I would venture to say that you are experiencing problems with your brick pavement. Whether your mortar joints are too big or the bricks are simply installed improperly, a simple repair for brick pavement is not enough. Generally speaking, even after the “problem” bricks are repaired, the poor installation is still widespread throughout and will continue to cause problems. Unfortunately, more extensive repairs are often needed once the problem becomes visible.

To prevent the water damage in the first place, the best thing for brick pavement is to waterproof regularly with ChimneySaver! On vertical surfaces it has a 10 year lifespan, but you may want to do it every 3-4 years on horizontal brick pavement surfaces. Without a hight quality water repellent, water can seep down in between mortar joints, pool, and freeze underneath the brick themselves. This freeze thaw pattern is extremely damaging to your brick pavement, so your best bet at prolonging the life of your pavement is to waterproof frequently and repair any loose or broken bricks or mortar joints as soon as you see the damage begin.