This liner has been cracked and must be replaced before it is safe to burn.

can become damaged in many ways. If a chimney fire occurs in your flue system the extreme heat may crack the flue tiles. The chimney flue is not intended to actually contain fire, only the products of fire which would be the gases that vent up through the chimney. If something causes a fire to start up in the flue system, say a bit of nesting is in the chimney and it catches fire, the heat can crack the flue tiles.

A shifting foundation may also cause flue tiles to crack. If the home is settling or the foundation shifts significantly it can cause a crack in the flue tiles. When there are cracks in the flue tiles the heat in the

flue system is able to reach combustible parts of the chimney. This is the reason that chimney relining must occur; it prevents fires in the flue system which can spread to the rest of the home. Chimney repair after a chimney fire is not cheap.

Your clay chimney liner has mortar joints in between each tile. If the liner is missing mortar joints the chimney cannot be burned until a liner is put in for similar reasons to those of cracked flue tiles. The missing mortar joints expose more of the chimney than should be exposed, making it more likely for any combustibles to combust.

The only real way to tell if your flue system has experienced any of these conditions, whether it be cracking or missing mortar joints, you must have your chimney swept and a video inspection of the flue system run. It is extraoridinarily difficult for a sweep to check out each individual flue tile for cracks or missing mortar joints by merely shining a flashlight in up the chimney. Using advanced chimney inspection tools, such as video cameras which are planted into small rods with lights, enables sweeps and homeowners alike to see what is going on in the flue system. Similarly, pictures can be taken using such equipment which can be used to make insurance claims if a chimney fire has occurred.

Another reason you may need to reline your chimney is if the chimney’s current chimney flue liner is too large for whatever it is venting. If you are experiencing draft issues or smoking problems, relining your chimney may be the way to go. An improperly sized flue may cause your chimney to not be able to draw properly. If you install a new stove or an insert it is generally required by the manufacturer and by NFPA 211 to have a chimney liner. If you are experiencing a draft issue or have a smoking problem you may be in a situation requiring a chimney liner.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Clay pipes have no warranty and they are usually extruded in a factory using ceramic materials. Clay flue liners are meant to hold the product of combustion (fire) but not fire itself. Fire in the actual clay flue system will cause cracks to occur, and they are intended for use in residential chimneys that burn less than 1000 degrees Fahrenheit. This particular type of flue liner is uniquely orange but baking can turn it more brown. In Europe, most liners whether they are clay or metal are round. Here in the United States we use modular construction which is square in size because square clay flue liners are easier to store, manufacture, and ship. Round flue pipes vent a lot better than square flue pipes because the products of combustion rifle or spiral up the round pipe. Often, a square edge clay chimney liner is not even fully used because the gases will still spiral up the pipe as much as they possibly can.

This type of chimney liner is used when clay tiles fail. Generally used to vent solid fuel burning appliances and fireplaces

Stainless steel chimney liners are primarily used as a relying system for damaged clay flue tiles. Generally they are used to vent solid fuel burning appliances and fireplaces. In an open fireplace (no wood stove or insert) NFPA 11 states that the exhausting flue system must not be any less than 10% of the opening of the mouth of the fireplace. Keep this in mind when you are converting from a clay flue liner and installing a stainless steel chimney liner. You must be sure not to reduce the square surface inches when you are replacing a clay chimney liner with a stainless steel chimney pipe.

A wood stove pipe is generally black and comes out of the top of a wood stove and goes into the wall. It is necessary for the wood stove pipe to be the same size as the collar of the appliance. You cannot downsize the pipe. Black pipe like this can be either single or double walled. Any single wall pipe needs 18″ of clearance from combustibles no matter what type of appliance or fireplace it is venting. A double wall chimney pipe can reduce clearance necessities by about 66%. It is IMPERATIVE to follow manufacturers instructions however because not all double wall chimney pipes are qualified for this. Double wall pipes are sometimes known as “factory built chimney systems.” Sometimes pipes that pass through a wall, such as a wood stove pipe that passes from the top of the stove through the wall, require an insulated wall thimble or a pass through. These fit around the pipe at the site where the pipe passes through the wall and dissipates heat so as to not catch the wall on fire.

Finally, there are chimney pipes that are called Class A chimney pipes. They are installed on the outside of a home. In most cases, these chimney pipes are spaced about 2″ from combustibles. Class A chimney pipes must meet the code requirement of being two feet higher than anything within a ten foot radius. This helps ensure proper draw. All chimney pipe and chimney liners must be installed according to the manufacturers listing standards which may require braces, spacers, particular clearances, and caps.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

The hardest part about relining your chimney is fitting the chimney liner. You need to properly size the liner in order for the chimney to draft properly. Remember that there will be an extra inch or so around the liner due to the insulation. Chimney liner insulation is extremely important and actually helps to reduce creosote build up by keeping the chimney liner warmer. Chimney liner kits vary in price based on the diameter and length of the liner, but a basic, UL listed 6” diameter 20’ long chimney liner kit, complete with connector pipe, tee end cap, and top kit is $394.50. Chimney liner insulation kits, complete with all of the supplies needed to properly wrap your chimney liner pipe in insulation, runs $199.99.

As you can see you are saving yourself major expenses incurred from installation fees, but with that you are taking in some risk as well. Lining your own chimney can be very dangerous. You need to be absolutely sure you have enough manpower to handle this large, sometimes heavy liner or else accidents can happen.

Products mentioned in this post:

1. Chimney Liner Insulation Kits
2. Chimney Liner Kits

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Stainless steel chimney liner kits are required for any wood burning or wood pellet burning stove or appliance.

When it comes to relining your chimney, all of the options can be overwhelming. There are so many choices out there, from the type of metal flue liner you choose to the thickness and rigidity of the pipe. It is difficult to decide exactly what option is best for you. On the market today are kits, stainless steel chimney liner kits and aluminum chimney liner kits designed to make the process a little bit easier, but even these can be difficult to understand. These kits most often come with all of the pieces needed to properly line a chimney including insulation and a chimney cap.

There are two main types of metal pipe you can line your chimney with, aluminum and stainless steel. There are many alloys of stainless steel, but we will get into that later. When lining wood burning stoves or wood burning fireplaces, you must use stainless steel. Almost all stainless steel liners that have been UL listed require insulation in the form of a blanket or poured insulation material, and it is recommended that aluminum liners be insulated as well. Aluminum is not appropriate for wood burning appliances or fireplaces because of the temperatures that the fires reach when burning wood.

Metal chimney liner's efficiencies are improved when insulated.

316 stainless steel pipe is a Ti-alloy of stainless steel that can be used to vent wood, pellet, coal, oil, and noncondensing gas burning appliances or fireplaces. This alloy is easy to handle and installs more quickly than regular stainless steel pipe. It is also known for its corrosion resistance in acidic environments and its ability to resist high heat corrosion.

Aluminum is the ideal gas chimney liner. It has been the material of choice for venting gas fired appliances for more than half a century. You want to make sure to purchase a liner that is UL listed. This means it has been put up to standard tests and passed. Many liners come with a lifetime warranty when installed by a professional when installed according to the manufacturers instructions.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Remember when purchasing your liner that chimney liner insulation must be purchased, and that flexible chimney liners are easier to work with than the rigid liners. Making an investment in a new stainless steel chimney liner can be expensive, but the safe, quality products on the market today and the increased efficiency that a liner provides (10-15%) are a priceless peace of mind.

Steps to Relining Your Chimney

Step 1: Measure Properly

Measurements must first be taken before considering what type of liner to buy and what tools you will need. To begin, measure from approximately 1’ above the chimney down to the point at which you will be connecting the appliance. This will give you the length of pipe you will need to buy in order to line the chimney.

Step 2: Purchase a Quality Chimney Liner Kit

Purchasing a stainless steel chimney liner kit from an online store or chimney supply store is your best bet at getting a quality liner kit. These kits come complete with all the components you will need to properly install your liner. Chimney liner kits are the easiest way to be sure that you are purchasing all the parts you need and that they are compatible with one another.

Step 3: Lay the Liner Flat

After removing the liner from the packaging, lay it out straight and flat on a flat surface (like a driveway).

Step 4: Attach the Connector to the Appliance

You will need to attach the connector to your appliance at this time. Your kit may have come with a tee connector or just a regular appliance connector. Tighten your hose clamp on the connector to the liner itself. Be sure not to over tighten the clamps as this can damage the liner.

Step 5: Measuring for Chimney Liner Insulation

Insulating the liner is one of the most important steps of the whole process. Liner insulation should be a minimum of ¼” and needs to cover the entire length of the liner. Begin by determining the width of insulating wrap you will require. Basic geometry is applied here; multiply the diameter of the pipe (the length from one side to the other) by 3.14 and add an inch and a half for overlap. The insulation must overlap by at least one inch, so adding an extra half inch gives you some fudge room.

Step 6: Cut the Liner Insulation

Lay out the insulation and cut to size with the foil side of the insulation facing down on the ground and place your liner in the center.

Step 7: Wrap the Insulation Around the Chimney Liner

Wrapping the insulation is actually quite easy with a good adhesive spray. Liberally spray the adhesive as you roll the liner up to keep the insulation from slipping.

Step 8: Tape the Seam

After the insulation is wrapped all the way around, use foil tape at the seam. I find it easiest to tape in 6-9” increments down the seam of the liner to start out with, but one continuous strip down the seam is required after the initial taping. This continuous, vertical length of tape will prevent tearing as the mesh is installed to the liner.

Step 9: Secure the Insulation with Wire Mesh

Wire mesh is what is going to prevent the insulation from tearing as the liner system is dropped down the chimney. Unroll the mesh and use the hose clamps (provided) to attach it to one end of the liner. Pull the mesh down the liner until it fits snugly and attach at the opposite end using hose clamps. After being sure that everything is tight and secure the liner is now ready to be dropped into the chimney.

Step 10: Pull the Liner Down the Chimney

Be very cautious, as you will be working on the roof. It is important to take safety very seriously and have the necessary manpower to handle such a large pipe. You may find it necessary to attach a pulling cone to the bottom of the liner to pull it down through the chimney as opposed to simply dropping it down through. In this case, another person will be needed to pull from the bottom.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

The masonry surrounding a fireplace, in the flue system, smoke chamber, and firebox is all susceptible to damage from the corrosive byproducts of combustion. The acidic nature of flue gasses actually eat away at the mortar joints of the flue system in between the flue tiles, allowing more heat to be transferred to nearby combustibles. Since these gasses are not being properly contained and vented, deadly gases such as carbon monoxide can leak into the home itself.

Another sure plus of installing a stainless steel flue liner is to optimize the efficiency of any appliance. In order for optimum draw, the ratio between the size of the firebox and flue system must be just so, or else there is a risk of smoking problems. Your heating unit (insert, woodburner, etc.) will detail exactly what sized flue system will make for the best ventilation system. The chimney in your home was built to the size of the existing firebox. Since an insert or wood burning stove is obviously not the same size as the opening made for the firebox, adjustments must be made in the flue system as well to reduce the risk of back up and smoking issues. Most appliances call for a 6” of 8” flue system, while most standard chimney flue systems are 12×12”.

Stainless steel chimney liners are recommended for oil furnaces, wood boilers, gas furnaces, pellet stoves, fireplace inserts, and modern wood stoves, so long as they are properly sized. These liner systems help reduce the transfer of heat to nearby combustibles and add to the overall efficiency of any heating appliance in your home. It is imperative to follow the manufacturer’s instructions when sizing and installing any stainless steel liner.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Rigid stainless steel flue liners are more efficient due to their smooth walls. There is a greater possibility of creosote buildup forming in the ridges of a flexible stainless steel liner than the smooth inside of a rigid liner, but both are susceptible to build up.

Flexible liners are much easier to install. Often times the rigid liners must be installed piece by piece as they are dropped down into the chimney. Flexible liners make for a much easier installation process and are therefore the most popular by pros and do-it-yourselfers alike.

If you are needing to reline a very tall chimney, flexible is absolutely the way to go. If your chimney is only ten feet or so, then you can get by with a rigid steel liner without too much installation difficulty. If your chimney has any bends in it then you absolutely want to go with flexible or you will run into countless problems.  Do it yourselfers: remember that you will need the correct amount of manpower to install whatever it is you decide to purchase, so weigh these factors carefully.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Your flue liner should be the same size as the pipe extending through the top or back of your heating appliance. You should not try to downsize your flue system unless your chimney is extremely tall (30 ft. or higher) and even then it is still wise to simply go with the size recommended by the manufacturer.

Your floor and walls need protection as well! Make sure that the floor which the appliance is sitting on is either concrete slab, ceramic tile, marble, slate over UL Listed cement, or are UL approved mats or boards if you have a pre-fab. Look into wall protection. The walls within 36” of your appliance need to be brick, stone, cement board, or UL approved stove shield (which are mounted to the walls using spacers.) These will protect your home further from heat transfer and fire.

Don’t wait until it’s too late! Putting off a chimney repair such as a reline can put the entire home at risk of fire damage. The cost of rebuilding an entire fireplace, exterior and interior, far surpasses the cost of installing a stainless steel liner. Not to mention the increased efficiency of your appliance is right around 15%, so the liner will pay for itself within a few years of lowered energy costs.

Finally, when purchasing a liner, especially on the internet, do not go merely by price. Look up customer reviews on a particular product and compare gauges of steel, the size of the liner, and check to make sure all components are included if purchasing a kit. It is important to realize that the cheapest liner is not always best, and not all liners are created equal. Check statistics such as crush test rates and be sure to read the fine print.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Flexible Stainless Steel Chimney Liner

Why should you even bother to install a liner? They aren’t cheap, but their benefits definitely outweigh their cost. The liner will protect your flue system, damaged or not, from the transfer of heat in your system to nearby combustibles.

Liners also keep your masonry safe from byproducts of combustion that can be extremely corrosive and damaging to your flue system. The gases produced by combustion will actually eat away at or deteriorate the mortar located in between the flue tiles in your chimney.

Flexible Stainless Steel Chimney Liners

If your existing flue system has been deemed unsafe to burn due to cracked flue tiles, missing mortar joints, etc., then looking into a flexible stainless steel chimney liner may be beneficial. Although rigid stainless steel liners exist, chances are that you may not be able to use this type of liner for your chimney. If your chimney has even the slightest bend to it, then a rigid liner just will not go down into the chimney. Also, you must be sure to use a flexible liner if you are installing for a new woodstove insert because more often than not you are required to bend the liner a little bit to fit it to the stove correctly. Consult a professional when deciding what type of liner will work best for you.

After you purchase your liner in the correct size and material for your particular flue system, carefully remove the liner and lay it out flat on a flat surface. Be cautious, the edges of the liner can be very sharp and potentially cut you. Start by attaching the bottom termination connector. Then tighten the hose clamp, being very careful not to over-tighten it on the liner. After measuring the exact length of the chimney (from the bottom to the very top of the crown,) add twelve to eighteen inches and cut the liner using tin snips. You need to properly install the bottom termination connector.

Chimney Liner Insulation

Chimney liner insulation is necessary along the entire length of the liner. To determine the correct width of the insulation, its time for a little grade school geometry: multiply the diameter of the liner by 3.14 (pi) to get the circumference of the circle, and then add on inch to this number because a one inch overlap is necessary to properly insulate the liner. So long as the insulation will fit in the chimney it is not necessary to have this exact number, it just cannot be any less.

Lay the insulation on the ground with the foil side facing the ground and place the stainless steel liner in the middle. After the liner is wrapped, use foil tape over the seam to keep it snug. After it is secured use one long piece of tape the length of the liner as a whole to cover the seam. This continuous piece of tape will secure the insulation the best.

Wire mesh is also necessary when it comes to insulating the liner. If this was not in place then the insulation itself can be damaged when being lowered into the chimney. Make sure your mesh covers the entire length of the liner. Do not forget to encapsulate the bottom connector piece as well. Hose clamps are the best for attaching the mesh, and they are usually included in the liner kit. Use the clamps to attach the mesh to one end of the liner. Pull the mesh on the other end of the liner until it fits tightly and use the hose clamp to secure it. For safety reasons, use the same tin snips as before to cut away any extra.

Click here for a complete chimney liner insulation kit that has everything you need to install a chimney liner.

Nose cone for pulling liners

Working on a roof, no matter what you are doing, takes many safety precautions. Be sure that you take all of these precautions and you have enough people to safely install the liner. You will be, basically, dropping the liner down through the top of the chimney and feeding it the whole way through to the bottom. It may become necessary for a rope to be tied to the bottom of the liner and someone standing inside the home pulling from the bottom. Be sure to keep the liner as centered as possible while dropping it down into the flue system. This will prevent any damage to the insulation or the liner itself.

After your liner is in the correct position, it is time to cut the top of the liner to fit correctly. Be sure to leave four extra inches showing on the outside of the flue system so that the liner is equal to the height of the crown. Hold the bottom connector in place firmly and apply silicone caulk to the top of the first terracotta flue tile or the chimney crown itself. Then, place the top plate over the liner and press it into the caulking. Tighten the connecting clamp or band around the liner to secure the liner to the top plate. Then, install your stainless steel cap by placing it over the collar of the top plate.

If you are connecting your liner to the appliance vertically, simply connect the appliance connector to the liner and bottom termination point. If you are using a vertical connection then you are finished! If you are connecting horizontally, decide upon the point where the pipe will come through the wall to connect to the tee body. Cut a hole through the insulation and mesh to indicate where the tee snout and tee will connect. Secure the snout and body of the tee using a metal band that should be attached and wraps around the tee body’s backside. Insulate the snout of the tee and fill the hole around the snout with brick and mortar.

Be careful to follow any given directions for your particular flue liner, keep the edges of the stainless steel smooth and be cautious of working with anything on the rooftop of any structure. You can buy a chimney liner kit online here.

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post

Faulty appliances are actually the cause of a slim percentage of chimney fires. Rather, the major causes are either improper installation or a poorly maintained flue system. Deteriorating liners may be allowing smoke or creosote to seep through the liner into the walls of your chimney. Relining your chimney will actually prevent excessive creosote buildup when venting a wood burning fireplace or stove.

When a chimney fire has occurred or a tile is cracked by some other means, there are many different directions a homeowner can take to

Chimney liner kits make installing a metal flue liner in your chimney less complicated.

reline the chimney. Stainless steel liners, whether rigid or flexible, are excellent options. Rigid liners are made of nonmagnetic stainless steel and come in round tubes five to ten inches in diameter and one to four feet long. Flexible stainless steel liners are much thinner and are of ribbed construction. The flexible liners are easier to install but the rigid liners are more efficient due to their smooth walls.

Aluminum liners are designated to line very specific types of gas-fired systems, but not gas fireplace logs. Chimney caps are recommended for any type of liner, whether tile or metal, and proper insulation should be installed.
A cast-in-place liner mixture requires the careful installation of exactly proportioned, inflated, round or oval bladders and casting a masonry material around them. Older or particularly weak chimneys can benefit most from this style of flue lining because, after curing, this masonry material greatly increases the strength of the chimney.
Occasionally a homeowner may come across a situation where a company gives a choice of a full reline or a reline going about six feet up the chimney. A few reasons why you should choose the full reline would be that with the six foot liner, your appliance or fireplace is guaranteed to operate at less than 100% efficiency. Also, the heavy liner will have to be removed for every cleaning which requires more effort and therefore more money.

It is absolutely imperative that you do not burn a fireplace if there is a cracked flue tile. Contact local chimney repair companies or visit amchimney.com for more information and answers to specific questions regarding your unique chimney. Once flames move through the cracked or deteriorating liner, there is no stopping them from lighting the entire rest of the chimney and roof aflame. Allow the experts at amchimney.com to answer all your questions!

• Bookmark on Delicious
• Digg this post
• Recommend on Facebook
• Buzz it up
• share via Reddit
• Share with Stumblers
• Tweet about it
• Subscribe to the comments on this post