This is my conversation regarding a damper problem that one of our Ask the Chimney Sweep readers had.
Question from Reader
But, how does this work when I’m in a condo and the top of the fireplace has a raised protective cover that covers 2 holes (one from my condo’s chimney and one from the condo above me)?
A.) I would want to discover why that damper is stuck. Is it because it is out of round, warped metal or just rusted closed?
Then I would be checking to see if there is a replacement damper blade available from the manufacturer. Most competent chimney sweep contractors can install this for you!
To start your hunt, grab a flashlight and begin to look for a riveted, small metal tag to the fireplace metal framing. It is hiding there somewhere; this tag will provide you with the needed information of who the manufacturer is, the model number and serial number.
Then go online and start gathering your information.
While pour hunting for this damper replacement, look for that manufacturer’s UL “glass-doors”, if they manufacture them.
My experience is that many prefab glass doors will work as well as a damper, in controlling air movement of the fireplace. May I caution you put just any set of doors on your fireplace, as many glass doors are not tested for your unit and may end up blocking air vent that is required to cool the fireplace off.
I caution you on installing any type of top sealing damper on your condo chimney top, as it most likely is not UL listed for your fireplace. Also, let’s not forget that you have that unique situation where I believe someone has installed “sides” on the top, not designed or provided by the manufacturer. In the past, I have dealt with draft and smoking problems with some aftermarket installs (shroud metal side covers) that were not designed and UL tested for that fireplace manufacturer.
These are my own insights
. . . regards
Your answer confusing me but I realize that maybe you are talking about a prefab fireplace. My condo building (over 30 years old) is brick, the fireplace both inside and outside is also brick and when I had someone clean it they said it was a masonry fireplace, So, does this change your answer?
(Clay’s reply to Reader) and more fireplace damper
I apologize and yes I’m jumping to conclusions thinking that you were referencing a prefabricated fireplace. Please allow me to re-edit my reply. Discover why that damper is sticking. Is it a warping metal blade or just rusting closed? Then I would be checking to see if there is a replacement damper blade available from the manufacturer.
To start your hunt, grab a camera, flashlight, and tape-measure, and get into the firebox (after it cools and the wood ashes dissipate, that is, assuming that is wood burning in hopes of discovering the manufacturer or your damper. Often the Mfg name is on the damper frame (i.e. Vestal, Majestic or Donnelly).
It is my experience that, all of these manufacturers’ are very popular and are still available at your local brickyard. On a personal note I have purchased many dampers and just used the valve blade and handle and threw the frame away.
If this were mine have a top-sealing damper. If this was my property, using a *Lock-Top II damper.
I personally use this damper because it offers a rain cap, spark arrestor, animal screen and damper all in one. Another benefit of using a top-sealing damper as it actually has a payback (ROI), saving you energy dollars.
Installing a top sealing damper actually allows for the preheating of the entire chimney flue stem with warm house air, often making it much easier to start a (wood) burning fire, while at the same time sealing the cold air out, while your fireplace is not in use.
Remember, it also prevents hot air moving through the chimney during the summer–time AC usage.
Regarding your statement “the top of the fireplace has a raised protective cover that covers 2 holes (one from my condo’s chimney and one from the condo above me)?” I recommend speaking to your chimney contractor about that issue.
Burn safe and warm while saving some energy!
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